Climate change is changing the flavor of juniper berries, the botanical that gives gin its signature taste. Increasingly unstable weather is shifting the berries’ flavor, and researchers at the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling (ICBD) at Heriot-Watt University in Scotland say those changing patterns alter the berries’ flavor compounds. The team says the berries have their own regional terroir—the local environmental factors that shape crops. Those factors depend mainly on sunlight and rainfall.
Matthew Polley, an associate professor at ICBD, noted, “A wet harvest year can reduce the overall volatile compound content in juniper by about 12 percent compared to a dry year. This directly impacts the sensory characteristics that make gin, gin.”
How did the researchers reach that conclusion? The team distilled juniper berries from regions across Europe, including Albania, Bosnia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo, and Italy, using berries harvested in different years. Experts analyzed the resulting spirits with gas chromatography to measure key flavor compounds. They found that berries from each region have distinct chemical compositions, which shape the woody, resinous, citrus, and floral notes in gin, according to The Guardian.
Annual rainfall significantly affects the berries’ taste. Wetter seasons lead to longer drying periods, which change the levels of water-soluble chemicals in the berries. Professor Annie Gill, the study’s lead, says, “The least water-soluble compounds are most susceptible to the effects of post-harvest drying. For distillers, this means that the flavor profile can vary depending on harvest conditions.” Gill warns this poses a significant risk to the multi-billion-dollar gin industry. Premium gin producers carefully select berries from specific regions to maintain their signature flavors. But climate change — especially increased rainfall in some areas — could disrupt that sourcing.
