Glue for Paper and Cardboard. Paper and cardboard bond well with a starch paste. To make the paste, you can use potato or corn starch, or wheat, corn, or rye flour. To prepare the starch paste, mix 60g of corn or potato starch in a cup (200g) of cold water. While stirring quickly, gradually add four cups (0.8 liters) of boiling water. The starch will gradually gelatinize, forming a transparent, sticky paste. To prevent the paste from separating, add 20-30g of borax. To protect against mold, add a teaspoon of carbolic water (available at pharmacies) for every liter of paste.
You can also make paste from wheat flour: mix 150g of flour with warm water to create a thin batter. Then, while stirring, gradually add 0.8 liters (4 cups) of boiling water. To prevent mold, you can add either carbolic water or 30g of alum. The paste gains greater adhesive strength if you add 20 to 50% dextrin glue. Dextrin is dissolved in an equal amount of boiling water. Keep in mind that dextrin slightly alters the color of the mixed paste. If alum is added, to neutralize the acidity that forms, you should also add chalk (tooth powder) in an amount equal to the alum. The tooth powder gives the paste a whiteness. Store the paste in a sealed container.
Photographic Glue is prepared as follows: in a clean half-liter tin can, add 30g of potato starch, gradually mixing in 100g of warm water, followed by another 300g of boiling water. Separately, dissolve 20g of alum in 100g of hot water. Pour the alum solution into the paste and mix well. After half an hour, add 20g of tooth powder and a few grains (on the tip of a knife) of laundry bluing, mixing thoroughly. Transfer the cooled glue from the tin can to a glass jar. You can prepare a cover by soaking two or three sheets of cellophane in warm water, being careful not to tear them. The soaked cellophane, folded in several layers, is placed over the rim of the jar, pressed down to fit the shape of the neck, and tied with twine below the upper edge of the jar. The cellophane dries, tightens, and securely seals the jar, preventing the glue from drying out. Trim any uneven edges of the cellophane lid with scissors. To remove the lid, gently detach it from the rim of the jar.
The glue for photographs should be colorless or white, well-preserved (not moldy or separating), and spread evenly in a thin layer without acidity.
Glue for Glass, Porcelain, and Faience. Liquid glass, sold in hardware stores as silicate glue or office glue, is an excellent adhesive for glass and porcelain. Mix one tablespoon of this glue with one teaspoon of tooth powder, and apply the resulting mixture to the edges of the break. Join the glued parts and tie them with string. After twelve hours, this glue hardens and securely bonds the glued parts. This glue is suitable for bonding decorative items that are not exposed to moisture.
Casein Glue for Glass and Porcelain. Mix half a cup of curd made from skim milk with one tablespoon of ammonia. The curd dissolves easily in ammonia, forming a translucent, sticky liquid with good adhesive properties. The glue should be made in small batches, as it thickens and cannot be dissolved upon storage. Instead of ammonia, you can add 5g of borax, previously dissolved in a quarter cup of warm water, to 100g of curd. This substitution does not degrade the quality of the glue.
Glue for Repairing Antiques and Other Valuable Items. When valuable items break, cement used in dental practice can be employed for repairs. Clean and wipe the broken parts with alcohol or cologne. Sprinkle a little cement powder on a glass plate and add a few drops of its solvent. Quickly apply the resulting paste to the edges of the break and join the broken parts, then tie the glued item with string. The cement sets in two hours.
BF-2 Glue is used for bonding items made of porcelain, faience, wood, metal, and some plastics. It cannot be used for bonding items made of celluloid, polyvinyl chloride, organic glass, or polystyrene. When gluing, thoroughly clean the break line of dirt, dust, rust, and grease, and dry it.
Apply the first thin layer of glue to the prepared surfaces and allow it to dry (without heating). Then apply a second layer, and when it is slightly dry, join the glued parts and tightly bind them with string or twine. For stronger adhesion, heat the item at a temperature of 100-150°C for 1.5-2 hours, then allow it to cool (at room temperature) before removing the twine. You can also glue without subsequent heating, but in this case, do not remove the twine for 3-4 days; the joint will be less durable.
Wood Glue. The best glue for wood is carpenter’s glue. To use it, soak the tile carpenter’s glue in cold water for 12 hours. After that, drain the excess water, and place the remaining mass in hot water. To obtain a viscous solution, the carpenter’s glue should be simmered without boiling. Heating above 80°C will degrade the glue’s properties.
You can also prepare carpenter’s glue that does not need to be heated before use. For this, soak the tile carpenter’s glue in vinegar essence diluted half with cold water. After twelve hours of swelling, drain the excess liquid and dissolve the glue over low heat. In warm conditions, this glue remains liquid for a long time, but it may thicken at low temperatures, so in winter, add a little vinegar essence to it. The amount of essence needed to thin the glue is determined experimentally. This glue bonds various items securely. Store it in a tightly sealed container.
Water-resistant wood glue can be made from curd. To non-fat curd, add a mixture of silicate glue and ammonia in equal parts and mix until a sticky mass forms. The glue’s consistency can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of the dissolving mixture. This glue swells in water but does not dissolve. It is used for bonding furniture parts. Over time, the glue loses its properties.
Filler for Furniture and Floors. To conceal small defects in furniture, a special filler made from wood shavings and adhesive solution is used. Sift the shavings and mix them with a hot solution of tile carpenter’s glue or liquid glue. Silicate-chalk or casein glue can also be used for this purpose. Add the shavings to the glue while stirring, enough to create a thick filler.
Before use, the filler made with carpenter’s glue is slightly warmed in a container placed in hot water. After applying the filler to the repaired item, allow it to dry for a week; then sand it with sandpaper and varnish. If there is a large crack in the furniture, do the following: place a piece of paper over the defect and press it down firmly to get the outline of the defective area on the paper. After removing the paper, trace the outline with a pencil. Cut a piece of wood of the appropriate shape from suitable timber, slightly sanding the bottom to a cone shape. Clean the defective area of dirt and dust, moisten it with hot water and hot glue.
Also, coat the prepared piece of wood with hot glue and place it in the crack, securing it with a weight or nailing it with small nails. The next day, sand the repaired area, touch it up to match the wood color, and varnish or polish it.
If a part of the furniture has come unglued, do the following: disassemble the parts that need gluing, clean them of old glue residues, and wipe them with a cloth soaked in hot water, then coat them with hot carpenter’s glue and put them back in place. Temporarily secure the parts by tying them with strong twine or driving in thin nails. If the wood has dried out and a gap has formed between the tenon and the mortise, glue a small piece of gauze onto the tenon, join the parts, and temporarily secure them. After drying, trim the protruding ends of the gauze. Hot carpenter’s glue bonds wood best. Alternatives include BF-2 glue or casein glue, the preparation of which is described above.
You can prepare a sugar-lime solution by heating 120g of sugar dissolved in two cups of water for an hour while stirring, then adding 30g of slaked lime. After settling, drain the liquid. Place pieces of carpenter’s glue into the sugar-lime liquid. After twelve hours, drain the excess liquid that has not been absorbed by the glue (it can be reused), and dissolve the swollen glue over low heat. The resulting syrupy liquid has excellent adhesive properties and remains liquid at any temperature.
Mix the liquid glue with sifted wood shavings to form a thick paste. Use the paste to fill defects in wooden furniture parts. If the legs of a chair or table have become loose, remove them from the mortises. Clean the tenons and mortises of old glue residues, coat them with wood filler, and reinsert the legs. Bind them temporarily. After one to two days, the glue fully hardens.
After filling defects, sand down any glue drips. Sugar-lime glue does not rot or mold and can be used without heating after long storage.
Fill gaps in a dried wooden floor with a filler made from equal parts sifted chalk and wood shavings, mixed with a liquid mixture of natural linseed oil and thick glue solution, taken in equal proportions. For making floor filler, only warm carpenter’s glue solution should be used. You can wash the floors after filling the gaps in 10-12 days.
Repairing Rubber Items. Rubber items can only be glued with rubber glue. To repair rubber items, clean the area around the damage with a file or sandpaper, and wipe the cleaned area with gasoline. The patch should be slightly larger than the damaged area. Clean the patch and wipe it with gasoline as well. Then apply glue to both the patch and the damaged area and let it dry well. After that, apply glue a second time and let it dry again. Glue the parts only on the dried glue. If the patch is applied with wet glue, the resulting gasoline vapors will prevent it from bonding securely to the surface. Place glued rubber items under a small weight. Trim the edges of the patch on the front side. Rubber glue should be stored in a container with a tightly fitting lid. Dried rubber glue can be dissolved in high-grade gasoline.
Celluloid Items are glued with acetone or nail polish remover. Additionally, there is a special solvent for nitro lacquer available for purchase, which can be successfully used for gluing celluloid. This solvent is applied to the edges of the break, and without allowing them to dry, they are joined together. You can make celluloid glue at home by dissolving washed and dried film in acetone or nitro lacquer remover. Use 15-17g of film for every 100g of solvent. The celluloid items to be glued must be clean and dry.
Repairing Plastic Items. Dichloroethane serves as the adhesive for polyvinyl chloride items and organic glass products. However, since using it at home is difficult, it is better to have polyvinyl chloride items repaired in specialized workshops.
Items Made of Carbolite are glued with BF-2 glue.
Filler for Aquariums. Small pieces of glass are heated strongly on a gas burner or stove and then thrown into cold water. This makes the glass brittle, allowing it to be easily crushed into glass powder. The crushed glass is sifted, and equal parts of cement and oil varnish are mixed. The resulting sticky mass (filler) is applied to the glued parts of the aquarium, which can be filled with water after ten days.
Instead of cement, dry zinc white can be used in the same quantity. If the filler is too thick when made, it can be thinned with oil varnish. The filler should be prepared just before use, as it thickens quickly.
Composition for Strengthening Knife Handles. Melt 100g of rosin, 25g of powdered sulfur, and 40g of clean sifted iron filings. Heat the filler and pour it into the handle hole of the knife, then insert the hot knife and allow it to cool.
Filler for Damp Walls. It is best to apply filler to damp walls during hot summer weather when the walls contain minimal moisture. To prepare the filler, melt 10kg of bitumen or asphalt. Add 1 liter of kerosene, 5kg of fine sifted dry sand, and 5kg of crushed and sifted brick powder to the melted bitumen. The filler should be hot, and caution should be exercised with fire. It is recommended to coat not only the damp areas on the walls but also the nearby dry areas. After such coating, dry plaster or plywood sheets are nailed to the walls, which can also be coated with asphalt filler on the inside.
Filler for Stoves. To prevent the stove filler from cracking under high heat, add 5% (by weight) of crushed asbestos fiber to the regular clay mixture. The fiber can be made from unusable asbestos gaskets, which are soaked in warm water and kneaded by hand until a paste is formed, which is then added to the clay.
Iron Filler for Stove Doors. Mix 1kg of clean sifted iron filings with 20g of powdered ammonia, 100g of slaked lime, and 100g of liquid glass (liquid glass, if not available for purchase, can be found in hardware stores packaged as washing silicate or silicate glue). The dried filler withstands high temperatures.
Filler for Securing Iron in Stone. Mix 100g of clean sifted iron filings with 300g of regular gypsum and 5g of powdered ammonia. The powdered mixture should be diluted with table vinegar to form a paste. It must be used immediately. The hardened filler securely holds metal inserts in stone items.
Garden Filler and Tar. Melt 0.5kg of bitumen (available in hardware stores packaged as boot tar) with 100g of turpentine, and add 400g of dry sifted ochre to the resulting mixture. Pour the filler into a tin can, where it will harden. Before use, gently heat the filler over low heat. Store garden filler in a sealed container.
Garden tar differs from garden filler in its greater viscosity and is used for sealing wounds in living wood. Garden tar is prepared by melting equal parts of paraffin and bitumen over low heat; for every kilogram of the mixture, add 250g of sifted dry ochre or clay while stirring. It is used warm.
Soldering. For soldering, a tin-lead alloy in a ratio of 1:2 is used; this alloy is called “third.” The tool for soldering is a soldering iron made of red copper. In household conditions, electric soldering irons are mainly used. The soldering area is treated with zinc chloride (pickling acid). To prepare pickling acid, add pieces of metallic zinc to a glass container with technical hydrochloric acid (available in hardware or chemical supply stores). Be cautious when pickling acid with zinc, as bubbles of hydrogen are released during the process. Gradually, the acid becomes saturated, the bubbles stop forming, and the zinc stops dissolving in the acid. This indicates the end of the reaction.
The soldering iron must be clean; it is cleaned with ammonia (in block or powder form). Ammonia is ammonium chloride; it should not be confused with liquid ammonia, which is sometimes also called ammonia. Soldering begins by applying pickling acid to the area to be soldered. The soldering iron, whose tip is cleaned with a file (if it is not electric), is heated on a stove or gas burner. The soldering iron is considered sufficiently heated if it melts a piece of solder—”third.” The cleaned hot soldering iron is drawn across the ammonia, which begins to smoke. Then it is touched to a piece of tin, and the tip of the soldering iron is tinned. A piece of solder is picked up on the tinned tip of the soldering iron, drawn across the ammonia, and applied to the soldered parts that have been coated with acid. The solder spreads and forms a joint. When soldering with rosin, the cleaned and heated tip of the soldering iron is dipped into rosin, which melts, and, capturing a drop of solder, it is transferred to the joint and drawn along the solder seam. The parts being soldered should also be heated. This is done with the same soldering iron before applying the solder. To prevent the metal from cooling too quickly, the parts are placed on a board.
Before starting to solder, the parts to be joined at the future seam must be cleaned of grease, dirt, rust, etc. After soldering with acid, the seam is wiped with a damp cloth and then dried thoroughly. You can also wipe the seam with a soda solution; soda neutralizes the action of the acid, preventing rust at the solder joint.
Soldering Aluminum. Soldering aluminum is more difficult than soldering tin, copper, or brass. The parts to be soldered are heated and wiped with asbestos, sanding powder, bits of solder, and rosin. Sanding removes the oxide that forms on aluminum and prevents the solder from adhering. The cleaned aluminum surface is covered with a thin layer of melted rosin and solder, preventing oxidation. Soldering on the tinned aluminum surface is easily done using the usual method.
Solder Paste. Solder paste facilitates soldering small items, wires, and other electrical and radio connections. To prepare the paste, melt the solder and pour the liquid metal into a dense cloth, rolling this bundle on the table. As it cools, the metal breaks down, and the solder powder is sifted, while the larger pieces are remelted and crushed. The powdered solder is mixed with an equal volume of glycerin to create the paste. A small amount of it is applied to the soldering area and worked over with a hot, previously cleaned soldering iron.