Gaby
Simple clothing and linen repairs are usually done at home. This section provides information on the basic techniques for the most common types of repairs.
Darning. The goal of darning is to make the repaired area nearly invisible. The thread used should match the color, thickness, and quality of the original fabric. If you have a similar material, you can pull threads from there or from the seam allowances.
Stitches should first run along the fabric (in the direction of the grain); otherwise, the repair will quickly fall apart. The stitches should be small. When working across the fabric, the needle goes under the thread, then over it, and so on. At the edges of the repair, do not pull the thread too tight to prevent the fabric from puckering during washing. The rows of thread should lie closely together. If the fabric is not completely worn through but has thinned significantly, darn along the threads without making cross stitches. Darning can also be done using a sewing machine.
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Repairing Sheets and Towels. Sheets often wear out in the middle. To repair them, cut them down the center along the grain and sew the edges together, trimming the excess.
Towels typically wear out more quickly at the ends. Cut the towel in half and sew it back together with the worn ends. Trim the edges of the towel.
Patches. A patch should be made from the same material as the item or from a similar quality and color. Before applying a patch, wash and iron the fabric to prevent it from shrinking later.
Place the patch over the damaged area, ensuring the direction of the weft and warp threads is followed. If the patch needs to be near a seam, unpick the seam and insert one side of the patch into it. First, baste the patch in place, then fold the edges under and sew it down with a hidden stitch from the front and back. Remove the basting stitches. For rectangular patches, make a diagonal cut at each corner about 1/2 cm deep. If the patch is not in a visible area, it can be sewn on with a machine.
For patterned fabrics, place the patch on top. Outline the damaged area, adding 1 cm on each side, and cut out the corresponding patch, folding the edges inward. The pattern on the patch should match the pattern of the item being repaired.
Minor Clothing Repairs. Jacket sleeves often wear out at the cuffs. To repair them, unpick the lining at the sleeves and carefully cut the cuff. Iron the ends of the sleeves and the cut strip, sew the strip on, then fold it inward, reattach the lining, and iron again.
For elbow patches, cut a piece of fabric from under the hem and sew on a suitable material. The patch should be about 1/2 cm larger than the worn area. Baste the patch so that the pattern direction matches that of the fabric. Then sew it on with a hidden stitch or small stitches. Iron the area where the patch is attached.
Pants Repair. If the waistband of the pants is frayed, replace it with a new one. The waistband should have a thicker edge that extends the full width from the edge of the pants.
If the edge of the pants is also worn, first unpick the hem, clean it, and iron it. Repair the worn areas and fold the pants up 3-5 mm above the repair line. Sew the new waistband along the edge.
If the back of the pants has worn through, unpick the seam for 20-25 cm and the inner seam for 15-20 cm. Cut rectangular patches, leaving 1/2 cm on each side. It is recommended to sew a strip of satin on the inside of the patch to protect the pants from further wear. Iron the finished patch thoroughly, smoothing out the seams.
There is a BF-6 glue available for repairing clothing and linen. It comes in tubes and is sold in hardware stores. When applied correctly and carefully, items repaired with this glue are as strong as those sewn with thread. It can be used on wool, silk, cotton, and linen fabrics.
Moisten the damaged area and the prepared patch, then press the patch under the damaged area with the right side facing up and outline the defect with chalk through the fabric. The edges of the patch should extend 1-2 mm beyond the damaged area. Prepare an additional piece for the patch that should be larger than the patch itself by 1-7 cm. Squeeze a bit of glue onto a clean glass surface and let it dry for 4-6 minutes. Apply the dried glue to the moistened fabric, the edges of the patch, and the additional piece. Also, apply a thin layer of glue to the gap between the edges of the damaged item and the edges of the patch. Allow the glue layer to dry, then apply a second layer and let it dry again. After applying the glued piece, press everything with an iron for 3-4 seconds.
After initially securing the patch, turn the item over, place a damp cloth on top, and hold it under the iron for 20 seconds. Repeat this steaming process 2-3 times, moistening the cloth.
Repairing Slit Pockets. The edges of slit pockets usually wear out. To repair them, unpick the stitches on the pockets, unpick the lower frame, and turn the facing to the right side. Then unpick it and trim the worn edge. After ironing, sew the facing to the pocket edge along the lower edges. Press the seam open. If the width of the facing is insufficient and there is no spare material, you may need to use fabric from under the hem.
For making the pocket frame during repairs, the pocket flap is often used, which does not affect the appearance of the item. The sewn facing is turned inside the pocket, and the edge of the frame is basted and sewn along the seam line. After the repair, reattach the stitches at the edges of the pocket where they were before.
If the pocket lining is worn only at the bottom, trim it back to a strong area and sew it again or add a new piece.
How to Sew on a Button. When sewing on a button, do not pull it tightly against the fabric; instead, leave the thread a bit loose. Wrap the resulting “stem” several times with thread. This allows the loop to fit around the button loosely without being tight. The “stem” should be longer for thicker fabrics and shorter for lighter ones. Buttons can be sewn onto silk without a “stem,” without pulling the thread too tightly. When sewing buttons onto outerwear, place a small button or a piece of fabric underneath for added strength.
Repairing Buttonholes. In places where buttonholes are cut, a triple layer of fabric is usually laid, and the fabric should be slightly stretched. The button should pass freely through the buttonhole and not extend beyond the edge of the garment. Mark the position of the end of the buttonhole with soap or chalk. The edges of the buttonhole are finished with a buttonhole stitch. Before applying the buttonhole stitch, the edge of the cut is finished. Buttonholes are stitched with strong but soft loops in the color of the fabric.
Linen buttonholes are stitched from left to right. For added strength, 2-4 threads are laid along the cut, which are also stitched; the edge of the fabric is slightly finished.
Clothing buttonholes are stitched from right to left. Where the buttonhole ends, the stitches are made slightly shorter, and towards the middle, the stitches are lengthened.
Making Buttonholes with Eyes. These buttonholes are made for suits and coats. The buttonholes are punched with a hole punch and finished with a buttonhole stitch along the cut, using several threads of buttonhole silk. The thread should be pulled tight. The knots of the buttonhole stitch should be positioned directly above the laid threads.
Sewing Snaps. Snaps are sewn in places where the fabric is not heavily stretched. To ensure that the sewn snaps align perfectly with each other, first sew the top part of the snap and mark the spot on the fabric with chalk. Then place the second half on the marked spot and sew it on.
