Uzbek Melons

Watermelons, melons, and pumpkins are a treasure trove of medicinal properties. The primary value of these fruits lies in their rich content of vitamins, mineral salts, organic acids, and aromatic compounds that positively influence metabolism and enhance food absorption. This is why melons receive so much attention here in Uzbekistan, a tradition that has been upheld for centuries. Melon farming is one of the leading sectors of agriculture in this region. Let’s delve into the techniques used by Uzbek farmers to cultivate melons.

About the Soil and Varieties

Melons thrive in fertile chernozem soils, as well as light chestnut and meadow-bog soils. Farmers select well-warmed, well-lit plots for planting. The best preceding crops for melons are cabbage and root vegetables. In Uzbekistan, several melon varieties are cultivated, including: Khandalyak 14, Ich-kzyl Uzbek 331, Karry-kiz 700, Koy-bash 476, Kokcha 588, and Umirvaki 3748. Here’s a closer look at these varieties.

Khandalyak 14: This early-ripening variety has a growing season of 48 to 64 days. It yields an average of 2.5 kg per square meter. The fruiting period is extended, but the fruits are not very durable and have low transportability. This variety is relatively resistant to diseases and drought.

Ich-kzyl Uzbek 331: With a growing season of 80 to 90 days, it has a similar yield to the previous variety. The fruits have good storage and transportability. This variety is resistant to air drought and fusarium wilt.

Karry-kiz 700: This variety has a growing season of 100 to 115 days and can yield up to 3 kg per square meter. The fruits store well and have good transportability. The plants are minimally affected by diseases and are drought-resistant.

Koy-bash 476: With a growing season of 85 to 100 days, this variety yields over 3 kg per square meter in irrigated fields. The fruits have high transportability. The plants have moderate resistance to fusarium wilt.

Kokcha 588: This variety has a growing season of 80 to 90 days and yields about 3.5 kg per square meter. The fruits ripen uniformly and are suitable for transport and drying. Their storage quality is satisfactory, and the variety is resistant to drought and diseases.

Umirvaki 3748: This variety has a growing season of 115 to 130 days, yielding 2.5 kg per square meter. The fruits store well and are suitable for long-distance transport. This variety is relatively resistant to soil salinity but is susceptible to fusarium wilt.

The most crucial condition for achieving high melon yields is timely and proper soil treatment. The soil must be loosened, weeds eliminated, and pest and disease outbreaks suppressed. Additionally, well-treated soil promotes the growth of soil microorganisms, which are essential for the healthy life of plants.

In Uzbekistan, the best method for preparing the soil for melon cultivation is to plow in April to a depth of 20 to 22 cm and then till again in May to a depth of 16 to 18 cm. Spring plowing (or tilling) provides better soil structure than autumn loosening and is more effective in weed control.

When sowing seeds in the summer (June), pre-sowing soil treatment includes provocative irrigation to stimulate mass weed germination for subsequent elimination. On saline plots, flushing irrigation is mandatory, using flooding techniques. Weakly saline areas are flushed by directing water through furrows.

On plots where flushing irrigation has been conducted, the soil becomes compacted, necessitating secondary tilling. For spring sowings, to avoid delaying pre-sowing soil preparation, flushing of saline plots is done after autumn tilling. For later sowing dates, the soil is flushed after the fallow period is lifted, and then it is tilled again in spring.

Sowing and Care

Melon seeds are sown in three periods: early, mid, and late. In southern regions, the early sowing period is from April 5 to 15, mid from April 15 to 25, and late from June 20 to 30. To ensure normal and uniform germination, 4 to 5 seeds are placed in each hole.

For mulch, semi-rotted manure, cotton seed husks, and even coal dust are used. In recent years, synthetic light-transmitting or dark films have been employed for soil mulching. These films help warm the air layer close to the ground and the topsoil, positively impacting the growth of early melon crops.

The first thinning occurs when the seedlings have 1 to 2 true leaves, removing the weakest plants and leaving two or three in each cluster. A second thinning takes place a month later, when the plants have 4 to 5 leaves, leaving one plant per hole. It has been observed that leaving two plants in a cluster does not increase yield, and the fruits will be smaller in size. With one plant per cluster, the fruits receive better light, resulting in higher sugar content.

Thinning is done after watering, when the soil is moist. The plants are pulled out with their roots, which can often damage the remaining ones. Since melons slowly recover from root damage, our practice shows that it is better to pinch or cut excess plants with a hoe rather than uproot them. In dryland farming, thinning is done when the plants have 3 to 4 true leaves.

In irrigated areas, plants are hilled 1 to 2 times. The first hilling occurs when the plants have 2 to 3 leaves, and the second after a month, at the beginning of vine formation. In the latter case, the vines are also directed. Vines are oriented according to the prevailing winds. Experienced melon farmers, when growing melons on irrigated beds, perform three vine trainings, directing them toward the center of the bed.

Melon plants respond well not only to nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers but also to potassium fertilizers. Potassium, applied in optimal doses, increases disease resistance, particularly to fusarium wilt, enhances the growth of vegetative organs, boosts yield, and improves fruit quality. Typically, all fertilizers—nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—are applied at a rate of 1.5 kg per 100 square meters of planting.

Melon crops are water-loving and require irrigation. Melons are more sensitive to soil moisture than watermelons because their root system is less developed. On saline soils in Uzbekistan, melon crops are irrigated with small amounts of water, maintaining moisture levels at around 80%. Irrigation is usually done through furrows. The depth and length of the irrigation furrows depend on the slope of the land, the soil’s mechanical composition, and its permeability.

Dry air is more beneficial for melons than humid air. In inclement weather, plants can be affected by damping-off, powdery mildew, anthracnose, and other diseases.

“Melon Sufferings”

Melons are susceptible to many diseases and pests. However, we will focus on just a few, as the control measures, especially agronomic ones, are similar.

Fusarium Wilt: The damage from this disease largely depends on the timing of its appearance, the variety grown, and other factors. Plants of medium and late-ripening varieties are most severely affected. In addition to reducing yield, the quality suffers—sugar content, aroma, juiciness, and storage ability of the fruits decline. The disease manifests from germination to the formation of the 2nd or 3rd true leaf, during the fruit swelling and ripening stages.

Leaves of adult plants may wilt without losing their green color. Typically, the vines of one plant wilt simultaneously. In fusarium wilt, the leaves lighten, becoming grayish-silver and spotted. Depending on the location and severity of the infection, plants can die within a week after the first external signs of the disease appear.

The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Fusarium. Infection occurs through the root system. The pathogen accumulates in the soil, so melon crops should not be grown in the same field for several consecutive years. Melons should also not follow crops like potatoes, tomatoes, or eggplants.

Fusarium thrives at temperatures between 25 and 30°C (77 to 86°F). Its growth slows at temperatures above 35°C (95°F) and stops at 5°C (41°F). The most favorable soil moisture for the fungus is 50 to 80%. It can even grow and develop in saline soils.

Excessive irrigation, flooding, or growing plants in heavy soils with a high water table can cause the fruiting shoots of melons to wilt by late July or early August.

Control measures include rotating melon crops back to their previous location no sooner than 6 to 7 years; removing and burning the remains of infected plants; conducting deep autumn tillage; and treating seeds with a 40% formalin solution (for 5 minutes). It is better to sow on raised beds where the root collars of the plants are above the soil saturation line. Additionally, uniform, moderate irrigation without excessive soil moisture, as well as loosening the irrigation furrow after each watering, is recommended. Spraying melons during the budding stage—with a 50% extract of superphosphate or a potassium chloride solution—can also be beneficial.

Powdery Mildew: This is one of the most common diseases affecting melon crops. In Uzbekistan, symptoms usually appear before the plants flower, especially if they are in shaded areas. Initially, the powdery spots are small—no more than 1 cm in diameter. Gradually, the spots merge, move to the upper side of the leaf blade, and in severe cases, cover it entirely. Leaves turn brown, become brittle, curl upwards, and dry out. The disease also affects the petioles and vines.

How to combat powdery mildew? First and foremost, it is essential to practice crop rotation, destroy post-harvest plant residues affected by the disease, and spray plants (at the first signs of the disease) with an 80% wettable sulfur powder at a rate of 320 to 400 g per 100 square meters of the plantation. Spraying is repeated every 10 to 12 days, with the last application occurring 20 days before harvest.

The appearance of round or oval yellowish-brown or pinkish spots on melon leaves is characteristic of a disease known as anthracnose or “medyanka.” The spots gradually enlarge and, in severe cases, cover almost the entire leaf blade. Affected leaves develop ragged holes, turn yellow, curl, and dry out, while the vines thin and break. Affected fruits take on an ugly shape and rot quickly.

Control measures include destroying plant residues, practicing crop rotation, maintaining moderate soil moisture, and loosening the planting furrow after each irrigation. Spraying plants with a 1% Bordeaux mixture and dusting with ground sulfur (150 g per 100 square meters) are also part of the control strategy. The first treatment occurs when the first signs of the disease appear, followed by treatment during fruit set, but no later than 20 days before harvest. Timely treatments significantly reduce the incidence of anthracnose.

A major pest of melon crops in Uzbekistan is the flower parasite—dodder. This grayish plant has blue flowers. Its leaves are replaced by pale yellow bracts, and its larvae feed on the unripe seeds of the host plant.

Among the pests that damage melon crops, we can mention the following:

Melon Aphid: This sucking insect can be yellow, green, or dark brown. The melon aphid gives birth to live larvae and can produce up to 20 generations in a season. It settles on the underside of leaves and then spreads throughout the plant, sucking sap from the leaves. Affected plants curl, yellow, and dry out, and flowers drop off.

Arbakeshka Melon: This variety is grown in the Tashkent region. Instead of roots, it develops suckers, which attach to the roots of other plants, thus parasitizing on their sap. Each dodder plant can produce up to 1.5 million seeds, which can remain viable in the soil for many years.

To combat dodder, it is essential to practice crop rotation, and it is best to sow melons on virgin land. Deep autumn tillage, timely weeding, and destruction of plant residues are also part of the health measures. Increasingly, biological methods are being used against dodder, such as breeding the fly Phytomyza and releasing it into the melon fields during the flowering period of the dodder. The fly lays its eggs in the flowers.

To reduce aphid populations, it is crucial to keep the melon fields free of weeds.

Spider Mite: This dangerous polyphagous pest is yellow or yellowish-green in summer and reddish or orange-yellow in autumn. It settles on the underside of leaves, young shoots, buds, and ovaries, sucking sap, which causes reddening or yellowing of plant parts, eventually leading to their death. Females overwinter under clumps of soil, in the surface layer of soil, under fallen leaves, and on weeds and foliage.

Control measures include collecting and destroying plant residues, autumn tillage, practicing crop rotation, and eliminating weeds.

Storage and Processing

The storage quality of melons depends on many factors, including the structure of the fruit’s flesh and its chemical composition. Fruits with dense flesh and high pectin content store longer than those with loose flesh. It is important to note that melons intended for storage should be harvested with stems 2 to 3 cm long; the rest should be cut off with a sharp knife. Green, unripe melons should not be stored, as they are low in sugar, do not ripen properly, and rot quickly. In such cases, the harvested fruits are laid out in a single layer in the field and left in the sun for one and a half to two weeks. Every 4 to 5 days, the fruits are turned so that the side that was on the ground faces the sun. During this ripening period, certain physiological processes occur in the fruits, which help improve their storage quality. Once ripened, the fruits are transported to storage. A soft bedding is laid in the cart to prevent the melons from bruising.

The ideal storage temperature for melons is between 2 and 4°C (36 to 39°F), with a relative humidity of 70 to 80%. At higher humidity levels, the fruits can be affected by fungal diseases. Melons are stored on shelves, in boxes, or hung in nets. To hang the fruits, 4 to 5 tiers of poles are attached to columns at a distance of 80 to 90 cm apart, to which the melons are hung in nets. The shelves are covered with dry straw or sawdust, and then the fruits are arranged in a single layer so that they do not touch each other. It is even better to create individual compartments for each fruit on the shelves and line them with burlap. Melons can also be stored in boxes. For this, the bottom of the box is lined with a 10 to 15 cm layer of straw, and the fruits are carefully placed in a single row.

In Central Asia, melons are often stored in local-type storage facilities. These are adobe structures 4 to 6 to 7 meters high with thick (up to 1.2 m) walls and earthen roofs. Ventilation holes are made in the walls, covered with special lids. In such storage facilities, the temperature in autumn remains around 10 to 15°C (50 to 59°F), dropping to 4 to 7°C (39 to 45°F) in winter. In Uzbekistan, melons are stored on shelves made of tightly stretched coarse mesh or in rings made from the stems of dry reeds.

Melons can be made into jams, jellies, and preserves, and they can also be dried or candied.

Melon Jam: For making jam, select fruits with thick flesh, wash them thoroughly, then peel them with a skin thickness of no more than 1.5 mm. Cut the flesh into cubes, sprinkle with sugar, and let it sit in a cool place for 2 hours. Then, prepare the syrup, pour it over the melon, and place it on the heat. The jam is cooked in 2 to 3 batches. For 1 kg of prepared melon, use 1.2 kg of sugar. For 10 jars of jam, each with a capacity of 0.5 liters, you will need 5 kg 160 g of peeled fruits, 4 kg 140 g of sugar, 25 to 30 g of citric acid, and 0.3 g of vanillin.

Melon Jelly: Prepare the fruits in the same way as for jam. For jelly, use 1.5 kg of sugar for every 1 kg of peeled melon. Cut pieces are blanched in a 10% sugar syrup for 10 to 15 minutes (using 50 g of sugar for 500 cm³ of water), then add sugar and cook the jelly until ready. To enhance the aroma and flavor, add citric acid midway through cooking, and at the end, before packaging the jelly, add vanillin. The finished jelly is packaged while hot in dry, pre-warmed jars, which are sealed with metal lids as they are filled.

Dried (Candied) Melon: Dried melons are primarily made in Central Asia. For this, the sweetest summer varieties are selected. The fruits are cut lengthwise into slices 2 to 4 cm thick, hung on stainless steel wire, or laid out on shelves and dried in the sun. The yield of dried melon depends on the sugar concentration in the fruits. A quality product should be soft, sticky, and elastic.