The fashion brand Ganni and the material production company Polybion have unveiled the world’s first jacket made from a material created by bacteria. According to the creators, this debut at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen marks a significant milestone in the development of bacterial cellulose as an alternative to leather.
How Was This Innovative Leather Alternative Created?
The prototype outerwear was made by feeding bacteria with mango fruit waste. Through a natural digestion process, the bacterial microorganisms converted the sugar obtained from the waste into cellulose.
After stabilization, this cellulose membrane was tanned like cowhide. The resulting leather alternative was used by Ganni to create a spotted yellow blazer adorned with decorative silver buttons. The jacket made its debut during the sustainability forum at the fashion show in Copenhagen.
A team of innovative designers, along with material researchers, has spent recent years experimenting with bacterial cellulose to create a wide range of products. They have attempted to apply it in various manufacturing processes—from “compostable sneakers” and leather lamps to cosmetic packaging that resembles paper or plastic.
However, Polybion co-founder Axel Gomez-Ortigoza tells Dezeen that the collaboration with Ganni represents “the first product demonstration from a global brand” using a material the company calls Celium. He believes this marks the culmination of a decade of work on bacterial cellulose.
Bacterial Cellulose Is Better Than Mycelium
As the fashion industry seeks more sustainable leather substitutes, several brands, including Ganni, Adidas, and Hermes, have begun experimenting with mycelium leather, which is grown from the root structure of fungi. However, the co-founder of Polybion argues that bacterial cellulose may be more sustainable than mycelium.
Moreover, Celium leather made from this material requires fewer natural resources for production. According to a preliminary life cycle assessment, it has a carbon footprint that is a quarter smaller compared to mycelium leather, while also yielding higher outputs.
The process is based on bacteria that have been genetically modified to produce cellulose with characteristics that allow it to compete with both genuine and synthetic leather. According to Mr. Gomez-Ortigoza, the resulting material already surpasses mycelium leather and is “approximately 80% better than animal leather.”
Alternative Leather Still Needs Improvement
The Celium alternative leather still relies on a petroleum-based polyurethane coating. This gives the innovative material durability, combined with either a synthetic or bio-based finish, depending on the application. However, the use of any dyes or pigments significantly reduces the material’s ability to be disposed of without negatively impacting the environment at the end of its life cycle.
Mr. Gomez-Ortigoza believes that for bacterial cellulose to be maximally effective, there is still a way to go to surpass animal leather. This can be achieved through a cycle of improvement in both the stabilization process and by fine-tuning the genes of the strains.
Currently, Polybion is also working on increasing production at its facility in Irapuato, Mexico. The company claims it is “the world’s first industrial-scale facility for producing bacterial cellulose.”