The new project at the Archaeological Park of Pompeii aims to showcase the diverse lives of the city’s inhabitants before its destruction. As a reminder, the city was buried under a thick layer of ash due to the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD.
As part of the project, park director Gabriel Zuchtriegel has decided to recreate ancient fabric dyeing methods. The inspiration comes from ancient frescoes discovered during archaeological excavations. These frescoes depict winged cupids producing colorful fabrics, harvesting grapes for wine, and creating perfumes.
“They are very close to reality,” Gabriel Zuchtriegel said about the frescoes. For this project, the director of the archaeological park enlisted the help of master dyer Claudio Cutuli from Umbria. Cutuli is known for using dyes that he personally creates from plants in his clothing line.
To recreate the famous Pompeian red color, Cutuli uses the root of madder (Rubia tinctorum). For brown, he uses walnut husks; for black and gray, he employs elderberries; and for amber, yellow, and shades of green, he turns to cardamom.
After researching the Pompeian color palette, Cutuli began producing colored shawls inspired by the frescoes from the wealthy house of the Vettii. It was there that archaeologists found images of industrious cupids. This luxurious house, like all of Pompeii, was buried under ash, as reported by the Independent.
According to the park administration, half of the profits from the sale of the shawls will go towards funding further restoration efforts for the once-great city. Recently, gardens have been revived here, planting species that the residents of Pompeii used to create dyes.
As garden historian Maurizio Bartolini explained, ancient artisans often used roots, bark, and flowers for textile dyeing. For instance, they derived a delicate pink color from rose hips. This dye, by the way, was one of the most sought after, the expert noted.
The frescoes discovered during excavations often depict wealthy Pompeians dressed in vibrant purple, green, pink, blue, and yellow garments. The intensity of the colors was achieved by boiling the dyed fabrics in metal cauldrons located in workshops. The dyeing was carried out by slaves, who, interestingly, wore simple brown tunics.
For Mr. Zuchtriegel, reviving textile dyeing technology is yet another way to bring ancient Pompeii back to life, allowing the city to be showcased to tourists.
“This is part of a scientific and cultural project aimed at realizing that history is not just about grand monuments and beautiful paintings,” said the director of the archaeological park. There is also another story of everyday life for ordinary people, which historians do not often write about, he noted.