February 9 marks International Pizza Day, a celebration of the world’s most popular fast food, with an astonishing 500 million pizzas consumed daily across various countries and annual sales reaching billions. However, from a culinary rights perspective, any version of the product made outside Italy is considered a “knockoff,” and the authenticity of Neapolitan pizza is confirmed by its special designation. What defines authentic Italian pizza, what is the legacy of the cuisine that created it, and which pizza reigns supreme in taste?
The Birth of Traditions
The word “pizza” first appeared in a Latin text in the year 997 AD. In the central Italian town of Gaeta, which was then part of the Byzantine Empire, a document was drawn up requiring tenants of city property to gift the local bishop duodecim pizze—”twelve pizzas”—on Christmas and Easter. In ancient Greece and Rome, this term referred to dishes served on flatbread.
The legendary Roman gourmet and contemporary of Emperor Tiberius, Marcus Gavius Apicius, described recipes for several prototypes of modern pizza in his book “On the Culinary Art of the Romans” as early as the 1st century BC. The dishes at that time featured dough and toppings made from wheat flour, olive oil, cheese, poultry, pepper, garlic, and nuts. While historians acknowledge the Italians’ priority in creating classic pizza, they remind us that the origins of this dish are older than commonly believed.
It is known that Roman legionaries brought a dish called “picea” from Palestine: a flatbread topped with various vegetables. In Ancient Greece, there was an even more similar dish—a flatbread baked with cheese, meat, olives, and vegetables. According to researchers, the Romans borrowed the Greek delicacy “placuntus,” renaming it to their liking as “placenta.”
Poor Man’s Creativity
However, early versions of modern pizza lacked tomatoes, as they were only brought to Europe from South America in the 16th century. Initially, Europeans were wary of this novelty, calling it the poisonous “devil’s berry.” The first to add tomatoes to pizza were poor Italian peasants. This happened on the outskirts of Naples, where the first modern-style Italian pizza was born in 1522.
Initially, Neapolitan pizza was considered a dish for the common folk. It consisted of a round yeast dough base topped with tomato paste, cheese, and any available ingredients: mushrooms, meat, and vegetables. The defining feature of Neapolitan pizza became the tomato paste. From being a humble food, pizza transformed into a recognized dish after it made its way into royal cuisine.
In 1889, King Umberto I of Italy brought his wife, Queen Margherita of Savoy, to Naples for a vacation. Local pizzaiolo (the term for a pizza maker, a profession that emerged in the 17th century) Raffaele Esposito prepared three types of pizza for the esteemed guests: one with cheese, basil, and lard; another with tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil; and the third with tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. The queen favored the last dish the most, and the creator named his culinary creation “Pizza Margherita” in her honor.
The Italian Standard
Since then, the former dish of the poor has become noble cuisine and is now protected by Italian law as a national treasure. In 2004, an approved recipe for pizza as an authentic product was published in the Italian government’s official journal, Gazzetta Ufficiale. The components of true Neapolitan pizza, as stated by the government newspaper, include specific varieties of tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, olive oil, basil, garlic, oregano, and a notably thin crust.
True Neapolitan pizza uses tomatoes grown on the volcanic plains south of Vesuvius and mozzarella di bufala Campana, made from the milk of buffalo grazing in the wet meadows of Campania and Lazio. This cheese brand is protected by a European geographical indication certification. According to the official document, the original types of Neapolitan pizza are: Pizza Margherita (with elongated San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella from the southern Apennines, and basil); Margherita Extra (with cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella); and Marinara (which includes tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, and oregano).
The description of how to prepare authentic pizza took up three newspaper columns, detailing not only the types of tomatoes and cheese but also the type of flour and yeast, the sauce composition, the ratio of ingredients in the topping, and even the method of oiling the edges of the crust. Compliance with these rules in Italian pizzerias is monitored by special government inspectors. They have their work cut out for them, as this dish is prepared in over 40,000 pizzerias across Italy. The authenticity of the traditional pizza recipe and adherence to the necessary preparation requirements are confirmed by the STG label on the product packaging or the designation of the restaurant serving such a dish.
The Faster, the Tastier
It is stipulated that pizza is baked in a wood-fired oven at a temperature of 450°C. The so-called Pompeian oven for baking pizza has a vaulted, semi-spherical shape. The purpose of this special oven design is to create dry heat, which allows for a crispy crust while keeping the filling juicy. Deck and conveyor ovens are also used for this purpose. By lighting a fire on one side, the pizzaiolo ensures that the heat from the flames rises, enters the dome, and reflects back to the center of the oven, heating the floor to 370-450 °C. At this temperature, pizza cooks in just one and a half minutes.
In a conventional oven, pizza bakes at a maximum temperature of 250-275°C, taking 8-10 minutes. The quicker the dish is prepared, the tastier it will be. And it must be eaten immediately or at least while still hot (a significant distance from the producer to the customer in upscale pizzerias often leads to a refusal of delivery service). The diameter of a finished round pizza should not exceed 35 cm, and its thickness, including the topping, should be 2 cm. The standard thickness for pizza dough is only 3-4 mm, and the diameter of the crust is 30-32 cm.
However, the round shape of pizza is mandatory only in the traditional recipe, while in other cases, it can be oval, square, or rectangular (it is convenient and economical to bake pizza in the oven on a tray of the same shape). A closed pizza or calzone is folded in half during preparation, taking on a semi-circular shape, resembling a large cheburek. Initially, this “stuffed envelope” was not baked in an oven but fried in a pan. Another type of nearly closed pizza is the rolled stromboli.
Secrets of Preparation
The thin pizza dough is soft and pliable (the finished pizza bends easily), does not stick to the hands, and does not tear. Achieving this effect is possible by using flour from special wheat varieties with a high protein content (known in Italy as type “double zero” – 00), natural yeast (sourdough), warm water, salt, and olive oil. The dough must be kneaded only by hand, after which it is covered and left in a dark place for several hours. The fermentation process takes from 3-6 hours to a day, and the dough can even be left for two to three days.
Next, the ball of dough must be stretched by hand, trying to shape it into a perfect circle. Rolling out the dough with a rolling pin is not allowed: thin pizza dough is not rolled but rather spun and tossed. It is unacceptable to use ketchup or mayonnaise: the crust is covered only with natural tomato paste or creamy sauce with spices. Depending on the recipe, seasonings for pizza may include fresh basil, black pepper, or ground oregano. These same seasonings are added to the tomato paste. The pizza can be lightly drizzled with olive oil on top.
The topping is laid out in a single layer—usually, it can contain no more than four components, although there are types of pizza with more ingredients. Pizza con le cozze is topped with mussels, garlic, olive oil, and parsley. Pizza aglio, olio e pomodoro features olive oil, garlic, oregano, and tomatoes. Pizza capricciosa includes mozzarella cheese, baked ham, mushrooms, artichokes, tomatoes, and green or black olives. Pizza Regina consists of tomatoes, mozzarella, mushrooms, ham, oregano, and sometimes black olives.
Ingredient Combinations
The specific components vary depending on the recipe. For example, Pizza Margherita is typically made with mozzarella (sometimes Parmesan is added), olive oil, basil, and tomatoes, but the variant Margherita bianca does not contain tomatoes. Of all the cheese varieties for pizza, mozzarella is the best choice, but other Italian cheeses can also be used: Parmesan, ricotta, cheddar, feta, pecorino romano, or provolone.
Vegetables and fruits used in pizza preparation include pineapples, artichokes, tomatoes, olives, spinach, capers, eggplants, garlic, onions, green chili peppers, and more. Mushroom options include white mushrooms, button mushrooms, and truffles. Meat products include chicken, beef, bacon, Italian ham, salami, and pepperoni. Seafood options include tuna, salmon, anchovies, mussels, squid, shrimp, and octopus. Nut options include pine nuts, pistachios, or cashews. Oil options include olive oil, truffle oil, or walnut oil. Spice and herb options include chili pepper, black pepper, oregano, and basil.
Pizza ai quattro formaggi features tomato or cheese sauce and four types of cheese. Pizza quattro stagioni (Four Seasons) is divided into four sections representing the seasons: spring is symbolized by olives and artichokes; summer by salami and black pepper; autumn by tomatoes and mozzarella; and winter by mushrooms and boiled eggs. The common ingredient in this pizza is tomatoes. Pizza boscaiola (or Funghi) contains mozzarella, mushrooms, sausage, and tomatoes (but can also be made without tomatoes). Pizza Diabola (Devil’s Pizza) gets its name from Calabrian pepper and spicy salami.
Examples of Combinations
Pizza Pugliese is made with tomatoes, mozzarella, and onions. Pizza ai frutti di mare features seafood. Sicilian pizza (Sfinchione) is topped with anchovies. The square pizza with a thick crust appeared in the 17th century in Sicily and was primarily consumed in the western part of the island until the 1860s. Traditional ingredients for Pizza alla marinara include tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and oregano, with optional capers and anchovies. Pizza with Marinara sauce is considered the oldest pizza with tomatoes.
Unique in its ingredient composition is Pizza Napolitana (also known as Napoli or Neapolitan): this pizza is made with tomatoes, mozzarella, Parmesan, anchovies, olive oil, basil, and oregano. Because it is very thin, it can be eaten without utensils, folded a libro—”like a book.” Tuna pizza is called Pizza al tonno. Pizza with pineapple and ham is known as Pizza Hawaii. In all cases, only fresh ingredients are suitable for the topping, and it is important to consider flavor combinations.
The most unusual varieties are dessert pizzas topped with various berries, fruits, and chocolate—such as strawberry, chocolate, and waffle pizzas. Recently, vegetarian pizzas have gained popularity, made not only without meat and cheese but also without any wheat flour. The dough is mixed from grated zucchini, carrots, celery, and crushed flaxseed—resulting in a thoroughly dried crust formed from the mixed components.
The Tastiest Pizza
The most popular topping is pepperoni (67%), while the least popular is anchovies (1%). Preference gradation is as follows: sausage—44%, bacon—39%, mushrooms—32%, onions—26%. Pizza lovers understand “pepperoni” to refer to a type of spicy salami that has been made in Italy for centuries. This ingredient is found in 36% of all pizzas served elsewhere. However, in Italy, the same word refers to bell peppers, which are a topping for the Italian Pepperoni pizza.
If a tourist orders pepperoni pizza in its homeland, they will receive a dish with red and green peppers, not a pizza with spicy sausage. The spicy salami there is called salame piccante. In street establishments without an oven, pizza is fried in a pan. In this case, the dough with the topping is deep-fried (another Neapolitan tradition). Alongside the dish, Italian pizzerias serve a light salad and antipasto or antipasti—a traditional appetizer “before the meal” consisting of cheese or meat platters, cured meats, seafood, and vegetables.
Italians typically order a whole pizza for one person. The finished pizza can be cut into four or eight pieces with a special knife (the meaning of the word pizza is “pointed piece”) or served uncut. This means that the diner should use utensils: the dish must be eaten with a knife and fork. Small portion pizzas, known as pizzette, do not require cutting in Italy and can even be held by hand, while larger pizzas, according to Italian etiquette, do not allow such liberties, unlike in America.
Interesting Facts About Pizza
- In Naples, there is a specialized Pizza University where students from around the world come for two-month courses. Here, future masters and managers in the food service industry study the history and technology of pizza making and gain practical experience in the famous pizzerias of the ancient city. Local chefs claim that training a qualified pizzaiolo requires at least ten years of practice.
- Italy produces 2.5 billion pizzas annually.
- While the average American consumes 10.5 kg of pizza per year, the average European consumes 300 kg of the dish in the same period.
- The longest distance a pizza has been delivered is over 11,000 km (transported from Cape Town to a customer in Sydney).
- In the U.S., the largest pizza for delivery has a diameter of 1.2 m.
- The record for the fastest pizza making is three pizzas in under a minute or 14 pizzas in 2 minutes and 35 seconds.
- The record for the fastest pizza eating is 45 slices in 10 minutes.
- The oldest pizzeria is located in Naples and is nearly 280 years old. The city where pizza was born has over 800 pizzerias.
- In Italy, even perfumes and cosmetics with a pizza scent are produced. These products use only natural ingredients: tomato extract, and oils of oregano and basil.
- According to research by Italian scientists, pizza fans are less likely to suffer from stomach and esophageal cancer compared to the average rate. Researchers attribute this to the action of lycopene—a powerful antioxidant found in large quantities in tomatoes.
Dough or Lavash?
The pizza recipe typically features yeast dough. According to the classic recipe, for 1.8 kg of flour, 1 liter of water is needed, and the amount of yeast depends on the temperature and humidity of the air, as well as the time available for the dough to rise. The yeast-based crust turns out fluffy and light, but baking a thick pizza takes longer than a thin crust. The optimal topping for the dish is raw ingredients: they will not lose moisture and juiciness during the pizza’s baking in the oven. At a temperature of 200°C, yeast dough pizza bakes for 40-50 minutes, while puff pastry pizza takes 12-17 minutes.
A tip from home cooks: a few minutes before the pizza is done, increase the oven temperature to 240-250°C. This will help the topping set better and give the pizza a nice browning. If frying pizza in a pan, the melted cheese indicates readiness. For even cooking, fried pizza should be made over low heat. Pan-fried pizza is a quick snack option: liquid kefir-based dough bakes in just 8-10 minutes.
Those who love thin-crust pizza can use a pre-made crust. Lavash pizza cooks very quickly: it should be taken out of the preheated oven after just 5-7 minutes. The melted cheese indicates the dish is ready. A topping of raw ground meat, tomatoes, and mushrooms results in a voluminous and juicy pizza, while one with cheese, olives, and smoked sausage is drier. Thin-crust pizza with a dry topping bakes in the oven at 200°C for 15 minutes, while traditional dough pizza takes 20-30 minutes. In the latter case, the oven should be preheated to 240°C to evaporate excess moisture more quickly.
Simple Pizza: Italian Recipe
This pizza uses tomato paste for the topping (you can use store-bought or make your own from fresh tomatoes, olive oil, dried oregano, and a pinch of salt), along with mozzarella, pepperoni, mushrooms, and artichokes.
Ingredients for the dough: flour – 600 g; fresh yeast – 25 g; warm water – 1 cup; milk – ½ cup; olive oil – to taste; sugar – a pinch; salt – a pinch.
Dissolve the yeast in warm water and add a bit of milk to the mixture. Pour flour into a bowl, add salt and sugar, then pour in the yeast mixture.
Knead the dough, adding room temperature water as needed. You should achieve a firm but elastic dough. Once it forms into a ball, let it rise in a warm place for 1.5 hours.
Cut off a third of the dough and stretch it by hand into a circle, from the center to the edges. Place the crust on a baking sheet greased with olive oil and let it rest for half an hour to rise a bit more.
Spread the tomato paste over the dough and drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt and add oregano. Place the prepared ingredients on the topping. To ensure your efforts don’t go to waste, add the topping to the pizza just before placing it in the oven. If done too early, the dough underneath will become soggy.
Brush the edges of the crust with olive oil to prevent burning, and send the pizza to the oven. Bake until done at a temperature of 200°C.
If the dough turns out too thick, the topping may burn while the crust is still baking. To prevent this, first bake the thick crust without the topping until semi-done (20 minutes), then remove it from the oven, brush with tomato paste, add the topping, and return the pizza to the oven to finish baking for the same amount of time.
If the dough is thin, place the topping in a single layer, as is customary in classic pizza recipes.
If the topping burns while the dough is still undercooked, a damp paper towel can save the situation: cover the pizza with it and continue baking.
This legendary Neapolitan dish is worth learning to make for the whole world.