WheatAutumn has come and gone. What should you do in the garden to ensure a good harvest next year? First and foremost, create conditions that let trees absorb the nutrients and moisture they need until the frost sets in. After harvest, fruit trees begin forming flower buds for the following year’s crop, so act quickly.
Immediately after harvest, till the soil in the garden to a depth of 7-8 inches (18-20 cm), and under the tree canopies till to a depth of 4-5 inches (10-12 cm). To avoid damaging the roots, use the edge of the spade near the trunk. Autumn tilling improves the soil’s physical, chemical, and biological processes, helps nutrients accumulate, reduces harmful insects, and helps the soil retain moisture through the fall and winter months. Loose soil also better protects the root system from freezing.
Before tilling, add the right amount of organic and mineral fertilizers. Depending on soil and climate conditions and on the type and age of the trees, the following approximate fertilizer norms are recommended. In the Polesie and Forest-Steppe regions, for a 10-12-year-old fruit tree, apply 308-396 pounds (1.4 – 1.8 centners) of manure, 4 ounces (1.8 kg) of superphosphate, and 1.1-1.3 ounces (500-600 g) of potassium salt. Apply nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate) in the spring at a rate of 2-3 ounces (0.9-1.3 kg). Apply manure every two years, while mineral fertilizers are applied annually. Increase the amount of fertilizer as trees age. In collective gardens, apply fertilizers in ring-shaped trenches dug to a depth of 6-7 inches (15-18 cm).
Pay special attention to tree trunks in the fall. Clean them of old, dead bark and coat them with a mixture of lime and clay. Dead bark restricts air to the wood’s living cells, provides shelter for pests, and creates conditions for fungal diseases. Coating trunks with lime protects them from sunburn and frost. After the leaves fall, spray the trees with urea (about 1.1 pounds or 500 g per 26 gallons or 100 liters of water) to protect against pests and disease. In a dry autumn, water the trees thoroughly to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 31-39 inches (80-100 cm). This significantly increases the trees’ frost resistance.
For berry bushes, do the following: in areas with fruiting strawberries, fertilize and till the inter-row spaces. For every 0.25 acres (100 hectares), apply 308-396 pounds (1.5 – 2 centners) of compost, 4-6 ounces (2-3 kg) of superphosphate, and about 2.2 ounces (1 kg) of potassium salt. Apply nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate) in the spring at a rate of 2.2-3.3 pounds (1-1.5 kg). Spread fertilizers in the inter-row spaces and around the bushes, then rake them into the soil.
Fertilize bush berries—black currants, red currants, gooseberries, and raspberries—regularly to ensure proper growth and good yields. Every two to three years, apply manure or compost around the bushes: 13-18 pounds (6-8 kg), or use a complete mineral fertilizer consisting of 2-3 ounces (60-80 g) of superphosphate, 0.7-1 ounce (20-30 g) of potassium salt, and 1 ounce (30 g) of ammonium nitrate. If you apply organic and mineral fertilizers at the same time, reduce the amounts by half.
Till the soil in the inter-row spaces of berry bushes to a depth of 6-7 inches (15-18 cm), and around the bushes to a depth of 5-6 inches (12-15 cm). Black currants and red currants yield well for about six years, while gooseberries for about seven years. So in the fall, cut back older branches at the base. For raspberry bushes, remove all canes that have already borne fruit. Plant new bush berries in the fall. After planting, trim the tops to about 7-8 inches (18-20 cm) above the ground to promote better rooting and growth.
