SMost simple clothing and linen repairs can be done at home. This section explains basic techniques for the most common types of repairs.
Darning. The goal of darning is to make the repaired area nearly invisible. Use thread that matches the color, thickness, and quality of the original fabric. If you have a similar material, pull matching threads from there or from the seam allowances.
Stitches should first run along the fabric (in the direction of the grain); otherwise the repair will quickly fall apart. Keep the stitches small. When working across the fabric, pass the needle under the thread, then over it, and repeat. At the edges of the repair, don’t pull the thread too tight; otherwise the fabric may pucker during washing. The rows of thread should lie closely together. If the fabric is thinned but not completely worn through, darn along the threads without making cross stitches. You can also darn using a sewing machine.
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Repairing Sheets and Towels. Sheets often wear out in the middle. To repair them, cut them down the center along the grain and sew the edges together, trimming the excess.
Towels usually wear out at the ends. Cut the towel in half, sew the worn ends together, and trim the edges.
Patches. Make a patch from the same material as the item or from fabric of similar quality and color. Wash and iron the patch fabric before you apply it to prevent later shrinkage.
Place the patch over the damaged area, keeping the weft and warp threads aligned. If the patch needs to sit near a seam, unpick the seam and insert one side of the patch into it. Baste the patch in place first, then fold the edges under and sew it down with a hidden stitch from the front and back. Remove the basting stitches. For rectangular patches, make a diagonal cut at each corner about 1/2 cm deep. If the patch is in an inconspicuous area, you can sew it on with a machine.
For patterned fabrics, cut the patch so the pattern matches the item. Outline the damaged area, add 1 cm on each side, cut the corresponding piece, and fold the edges inward so the pattern lines up.
Minor Clothing Repairs. Jacket sleeves often wear at the cuffs. Unpick the lining at the sleeves and carefully cut away the cuff. Iron the sleeve ends and the cut strip, sew the strip on, fold it inward, reattach the lining, and iron again.
For elbow patches, cut a piece of fabric from under the hem and use a suitable material for the patch. Make the patch about 1/2 cm larger than the worn area. Baste the patch so the pattern direction matches the fabric, then sew it on with a hidden stitch or small stitches. Iron the patched area.
Pants Repair. If a waistband is frayed, replace it with a new one. The replacement waistband should have a thicker edge that extends the full width from the edge of the pants.
If the hem of the pants is worn, unpick the hem, clean and iron it, repair the worn areas, and fold the pants up 3–5 mm above the repair line. Sew the new waistband along the edge.
If the back of the pants has worn through, unpick the seam for 20–25 cm and the inner seam for 15–20 cm. Cut rectangular patches, leaving 1/2 cm on each side. Sew a strip of satin on the inside of the patch to protect the pants from further wear. Iron the finished patch thoroughly, smoothing the seams.
There is a BF-6 glue available for repairing clothing and linens; it comes in tubes and is sold in hardware stores. When applied carefully, items repaired with this glue can be as strong as those sewn with thread. It can be used on wool, silk, cotton, and linen.
Moisten the damaged area and the prepared patch. Press the patch under the damaged area with the right side facing up and outline the defect with chalk through the fabric. Make the edges of the patch extend 1–2 mm beyond the damaged area. Prepare an additional backing piece that is larger than the patch by 1–7 cm.
Squeeze a bit of glue onto a clean glass surface and let it dry for 4–6 minutes. Apply the dried glue to the moistened fabric, the edges of the patch, and the additional backing piece. Also apply a thin layer of glue to the gap between the edges of the damaged item and the patch edges. Allow this glue layer to dry, then apply a second layer and let it dry again. After positioning the glued patch, press everything with an iron for 3–4 seconds.
After securing the patch, turn the item over, place a damp cloth on top, and hold the iron over it for 20 seconds. Repeat this steaming process 2–3 times, re-moistening the cloth between presses.
Repairing Slit Pockets. The edges of slit pockets usually wear out. Unpick the pocket stitches and the lower frame, then turn the facing to the right side and trim the worn edge. After ironing, sew the facing to the pocket edge along the lower edges and press the seam open. If the facing is too narrow and you have no spare material, use fabric from under the hem.
When making the pocket frame during repairs, you can often use the pocket flap so the item’s appearance is not affected. Turn the sewn facing inside the pocket, baste the edge of the frame, and sew along the seam line. After the repair, reattach the stitches at the pocket edges where they were originally.
If the pocket lining is worn only at the bottom, trim it back to a strong area and sew it again or add a new piece.
How to Sew on a Button. When sewing on a button, don’t pull it tight against the fabric; leave the thread a bit loose to form a small stem. Wrap the resulting “stem” several times with thread. Make the stem longer for thicker fabrics and shorter for lighter ones. Buttons can be sewn onto silk without a stem, but don’t pull the thread too tight. For outerwear, place a small button or a scrap of fabric under the button for added strength.
Repairing Buttonholes. Where buttonholes are cut, a triple layer of fabric is usually used, and the fabric should be slightly stretched. The button should pass freely through the buttonhole and not extend beyond the garment edge. Mark the position of the buttonhole end with soap or chalk. Finish the cut edge before applying the buttonhole stitch, and use strong but soft loops in a thread color that matches the fabric.
Linen buttonholes are stitched from left to right. For extra strength, lay 2–4 threads along the cut and stitch them in place; finish the fabric edge slightly.
Clothing buttonholes are stitched from right to left. Make the stitches slightly shorter at the ends of the buttonhole and lengthen them toward the middle.
Making Buttonholes with Eyes. These buttonholes are made for suits and coats. Punch the buttonhole with a hole punch and finish the cut with a buttonhole stitch, using several threads of buttonhole silk. Pull the thread tight and position the knots of the buttonhole stitch directly above the laid threads.
Sewing Snaps. Sew snaps in areas of the garment that do not experience heavy stretching. To make sure the two halves align perfectly, sew the top part of the snap first and mark its position on the fabric with chalk. Then place the second half on the marked spot and sew it on.
