Gaby
Fate has thrown plenty of challenges into her life, knocking her off the pedestal that talent and determination had placed her on.
It’s no coincidence that wealthy women dreamed of her dresses. Ann Cole Lowe (1898-1981) had a unique talent for taming the most luxurious fabrics and understood the needs of her demanding clients. In her elegant creations, she employed the intricate “trapunto” technique, which dates back to medieval Italy. She also adorned her dresses with stunning, original flowers.
The Secret Snob
Despite being revered as a pioneer among American designers, Ann Lowe’s name was rarely mentioned at social events. Today, no one would bat an eye at her African American heritage. However, during the height of her career, things were quite different.
In the 1960s, one prestigious publication dubbed Ann one of society’s best-kept secrets. This only confirmed that the information about the high-profile designer was impossible to hide; her name had become too well-known.
Ann was not only aware of her status but also referred to herself as a “terrible snob.” She had long determined that her target audience was the upper crust. Her dresses would not tolerate any social mismatches. The journey to her success was too hard-earned, a true American success story.
Emerging from a family of slaves in Alabama, she inherited the craft of sewing from her grandmother and mother, who owned their own tailor shop. At just 16, after becoming an orphan, Ann Lowe crafted her first dresses for the state’s First Lady, taking the family business into her own hands. A few years later, the gifted 19-year-old was accepted into the New York School of Design, a groundbreaking event. Due to her skin color, she studied separately from other students, most of whom could not match her talent.
Initially, she gained recognition among the elite of Florida, where she spent ten years creating stunning dresses in her own atelier. Ultimately, she truly established herself as a couturier when life led her back to New York, where her opportunities flourished. From her studio came garments for women from billionaire families, aristocrats, socialites, renowned musicians, and Oscar nominees, among others.
Ann Lowe in her studio
The Fateful Dress of Jacqueline
In 1953, Ann Lowe received a commission to create the wedding dress for Jacqueline Bouvier, who would soon become Jacqueline Kennedy and the First Lady of the United States. The Bouvier family had long been familiar with the designer’s work, so they didn’t hesitate in choosing her for Jacqueline’s future gown. As we look back at the wedding photos of the most beautiful couple of the 20th century, few know the dramas that accompanied the making of the dress for the bride.
Jacqueline Kennedy in her wedding dress
For this masterpiece in ivory silk taffeta, the designer used over 45 yards of fabric—a whole roll. This was necessary for the numerous patterned pleats that adorned the bodice and skirt. A striking neckline delicately revealed the shoulders of the 24-year-old bride.
Just ten days before the wedding, the space where Lowe’s team had worked for two months on Jacqueline’s dress was flooded. In a short time, the seamstresses had to revive the ruined masterpiece along with the other dresses for their noble clients. This disaster cost the designer an amount equivalent to $21,000 today. Yet, when the Kennedy wedding was broadcast to the world, not a single reporter mentioned the name of the dress’s creator.
Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress, created by Ann Lowe
Perhaps it was envy from competitors? Or maybe it was Ann Lowe’s price for her own snobbery—the arrogance of a Black woman who knew all too well what it meant to be divided into white and colored, ordinary and elite.
As time went on, Ann Lowe’s story took on even more tragedy. In the early 1960s, she went bankrupt and lost her workshop due to tax issues. Rumor has it that she had no business acumen whatsoever. To add to her misfortunes, she had her right eye removed due to suddenly discovered glaucoma, and later she nearly lost her left eye as well.
However, amidst this dark cloud of troubles, a ray of light appeared. An anonymous benefactor suddenly covered the designer’s debts. Many suspected it was Jacqueline Kennedy behind this generous gesture, although there has been no confirmed information to this day.
Ann Cole Lowe completely stepped away from her work in 1972. Now, her beautiful dresses adorn the exhibitions of leading museums around the world, inspiring new generations of designers.
We invite you into the enchanting world of Ann Cole Lowe—a gallery featuring her stunning dresses. Click on any image to view it in full screen.
