Gray hair can be particularly disheartening because it’s the most obvious sign of aging, a harbinger of old age. For men, gray hair can add a rush of adrenaline as they try to escape the challenges of a midlife crisis, echoing the saying, “Gray in the beard, the devil in the rib.” Meanwhile, women, often unsettled by unwanted changes in their appearance, resort to plucking gray hairs or dyeing them to hide the treacherous signs of parting with youth. However, in some cases, the futile battle against gray hair can become a bigger issue than the gray itself. What should we know about this phenomenon that everyone encounters sooner or later? Why are celebrities opting out of dyeing their gray hair, how does their example influence attitudes toward “signs of aging” in today’s world, and does this new trend have a future?
What Causes Gray Hair?
Hair is made up of a protein that contains a natural pigment called melanin. The same brown pigment is responsible for both light and dark hair, with the difference lying in the concentration of this pigment. Melanin is produced by specialized cells known as melanocytes. When melanocytes lose their ability to produce melanin, gray hair appears. The gradual decrease of melanin pigment until its complete absence contributes to the onset of gray hair. From a scientific perspective, as we age, the development of pigment cells slows down, depriving them of the ability to mature: immature cells cannot develop into melanocytes.
Researchers explain the emergence of gray hair as a result of the accumulation of free radicals due to oxidative stress or link it to changes caused by inflammatory processes, chemical substances, or UV rays affecting the genetic material of cells. Without pigment synthesis, hair turns gray, white, yellowish, or silvery. In numerical terms, gray hair is the discoloration and structural change of hair when there is more than a 70% absence of melanin in pigmentation. The causes of gray hair should primarily be sought in the natural aging process of the body, which leads to a decrease in the number of melanocytes in hair follicles. However, gray hair can also indicate health issues, such as autoimmune diseases or endocrine system disorders.
Can Stress Cause Gray Hair?
One factor that slows down the circulation of melanin in hair follicles is psychological trauma. Stress causes a sharp increase in adrenaline levels in the blood, which can lead to spasms of the arteries near the hair follicles. When the supply of oxygen and nutrients is reduced or completely cut off, it results in oxygen deprivation and malnutrition of the hair follicles. The consequence of this issue is the loss of color in the hair. Researchers at New York University studied the trend of graying hair in presidents before and after their inauguration and confirmed suspicions about the depletion of melanocytes in hair follicles in mice: under stress, the fur of laboratory animals also turned gray.
Thus, it has been proven that stress is one of the causes of gray hair, but it is not the only one. Other triggers for the appearance of unpigmented hair can include: frequent or prolonged exposure to direct sunlight; metabolic disorders; issues with the digestive or nervous systems; chronic fatigue syndrome; severe headaches (migraines); pituitary dysfunction; endocrine pathologies (thyroid disorders); vitiligo; anemia (low hemoglobin levels in the blood); vitamin and mineral deficiencies; and genetic predisposition to pigment loss. It is known that melanocytes are damaged by free radicals found in harmful components of tobacco, so smoking is among the factors that provoke gray hair. Studies have shown that smokers are four times more likely to experience premature graying than non-smokers.
How Does Gray Hair Form?
Typically, hair turns gray gradually: from a trichology (the science of hair) perspective, the appearance of a few gray hairs after the age of 30-35 is considered normal. Against the backdrop of other hair with normal pigmentation, the first gray hairs remain inconspicuous. Gray hair can emerge from the roots or cover new hairs that grow in place of lost pigmented hairs. The temples and the front of the head are usually the first to gray, and by the age of 50-55, gray hair typically spreads evenly across the entire head. The time from the appearance of the first gray hairs to complete graying can vary: from a few years to three decades. Local clusters of gray hair may only appear in cases of rapid balding with mass loss of pigmented hairs.
Early graying, or premature graying of hair, can be discussed if the first gray hairs appear before the age of 25-30, and by 40, most of the hair has already turned gray. Graying at 20 can result from a serious illness or medications that promote hypopigmentation. Specifically, chemotherapy and treatments for Parkinson’s disease can affect melanin production. Early graying can also be caused by Werner syndrome: progeria can cause graying even in children. In some cases, the appearance of gray hair is attributed to poor ecology, an unhealthy lifestyle, and a diet lacking in vitamins and minerals.
Can Gray Hair Be Reversed?
While reversing the graying process is generally considered impossible, it is entirely feasible to slow down the onset of early graying through active preventive measures. First and foremost, a balanced diet is crucial, as gray hair and vitamins are interconnected. A deficiency in zinc, magnesium, copper, iron, iodine, manganese, selenium, and vitamins A, C, D, E, and the B group can lead to graying. Specifically, a lack of folic acid (vitamin B9) and vitamin B12 can result in decreased red blood cells and anemia, which can cause graying. In this case, it is advisable to take vitamins for gray hair to restore pigmentation. However, it’s more effective to do this proactively to prevent gray hair from appearing.
Whether gray hair can be restored is a debated question. While supplement manufacturers affirm this, opponents accuse them of dishonest advertising regarding proteins and vitamins for gray hair, believing that dietary supplements and specific diets with certain components are not effective in addressing this issue. On the other hand, attempts to stop graying by addressing its underlying causes are a different matter. Knowing which vitamin is lacking when hair turns gray can help ensure its presence in the diet. A trichologist or nutritionist can advise on what to eat to prevent gray hair. Experts emphasize the importance of consuming fish, meat, nuts, vegetables, and fruits. Foods should contain antioxidants and vitamin B12.
What to Do If Your Hair Is Turning Gray?
If the causes of graying are poor nutrition, stress, an unsuitable climate, or harmful habits, it may be possible to partially restore pigmentation and stop graying by eliminating the conditions that lead to it. To this end, it is advisable to normalize your diet, including sufficient amounts of essential nutrients, quit alcohol and tobacco, and protect your skin and hair from temperature fluctuations and UV exposure. It’s important to avoid factors that lead to the depletion of the nervous system: strong emotions, stress, and mental fatigue. Physical activity, a healthy lifestyle, relaxation, and meditation can help reduce the impact of stress on the body.
To delay gray hair, trichologists have modern diagnostic and treatment technologies at their disposal: doctors can nourish hair follicles and the scalp with necessary vitamins and trace elements, slowing the onset of gray hair through preventive procedures. Regular medical check-ups are important to timely identify and treat issues affecting hair health. Professional hair care, such as plasma lifting, mesotherapy, and scalp massage, can help prevent early graying. Consulting a doctor is the best way to find out if gray hair can be restored. A hairstylist can also help find an alternative to “gray hair remedies” – hair dye.
Fight It or Embrace It?
In any case, gray hair is not a reason to “tear your hair out” in an attempt to get rid of it, as self-removal of gray hairs can lead to damage to hair follicles, dermatitis, and baldness. At the same time, plucking gray hairs won’t prevent new hairs from those same follicles from also being gray. If you consider gray hair a defect and hide it under dye, be prepared to maintain that dye job every month. This can be an exhausting and costly prospect, draining the wallets of those battling gray hair while enriching dye manufacturers. According to Leila Asfour from the British Association of Dermatologists, the global hair dye market is projected to reach $33.7 billion by 2030.
Some choose not to fight nature and dye their hair white or silver, making the regrowth of gray roots less noticeable. Among modern hairstyling services, there’s even a special technique called “gray blending.” Hairstylists assure that well-groomed gray hair can also look attractive, stylish, and elegant. It can highlight individuality, adding an air of sophistication and wealth to one’s appearance. Moreover, silver hair, as noted by Glamour magazine, is a “spring trend” and “a fashionable choice for cool girls.” The shade oyster grey – a light and fresh pearlescent color – has become a top Instagram favorite. British Vogue quotes hairstylist Luke Hersheson: “The days when gray hair was unacceptable are gone – we no longer associate it with old age, as many people are choosing gray.”
The Trend of Embracing Gray Hair
It’s no surprise that Western celebrities have become advocates for gray hair in a society where naturalness and effortless beauty have long been a must-have for contemporary appearances. Raised on different aesthetic norms, women in foreign countries have become more concerned with the ease of self-care than with artificial beauty. These trends are spreading worldwide as leading examples to follow. Online communities like #youngandgray have contributed to the popularity of gray hair, with the search term “gray hair” entering Google Trends. Such resources encourage more women (especially younger ones) to stop being ashamed of their gray hair and to abandon regular dyeing.
One of the initiators of the shift in attitude toward gray hair is 27-year-old American Marty Traslow. At her young age, the founder of the Grombre project, represented by a corresponding website and a 134,000-strong Instagram community, is already one-third gray. Her experience of living with “silver hair” began with the first strands of gray at 20. Three years ago, she made a conscious decision to stop dyeing her hair to prove by her example that gray hair does not make a person unattractive or old. Her website features photos of stylish hairstyles for gray hair and outfits for chic looks, as well as confessions from women who are unafraid of graying. Successful women inspire those battling gray hair not to worry about a problem that doesn’t actually exist.
Creativity or Manifesto?
Promoters of the gray hair trend include 72-year-old fashion guru Linda Rodin, 57-year-old style icon Daphne Guinness, the world’s oldest model Iris Apfel (who passed away last year at the age of 102), and 83-year-old Guinness World Record runway star Carmen dell’Orefice: these women have proven that neither age nor gray hair prevents them from landing million-dollar contracts with modeling agencies and top brands. Among well-known trendsetters is British Vogue editor Sarah Harris: the 43-year-old woman has long embraced her early graying, which began at 16. Her French colleague, fashion journalist and blogger Sophie Fontanel, stopped dyeing her gray hair at over 50, calling the fight against signs of aging “a senseless battle against the ocean.”
The author of the book “Phenomenon” believes that women are instructed to hide their gray hair solely due to social prejudices, which should be left in the past. This sentiment is echoed by American country singer Emmylou Harris, actresses Diane Keaton, Glenn Close, and Jamie Lee Curtis, and British actresses Helen Mirren and Judi Dench. All these women have stopped dyeing their gray hair, despite the need to appear on “red carpets” and screens. Notably, alongside these names, we see a list of various creative professions and roles: “actress,” “singer,” “director,” “producer,” “Oscar winner,” “writer,” “feminist.”
Silver Beauty
For nearly two decades, American photographer Vicki Topaz has sought to rid women’s gray hair of its negative connotation. The title of her 2008 project, Silver: a state of mind, speaks for itself: gray hair (silver) is a state of the soul. At the age of 60, the photographer created a gallery of portraits of creative women who do not shy away from their natural gray hair, embracing their “silver beauty.” At an exhibition of these works at the American Institute for Aging Research, the topic of women’s gray hair was explored through interviews with 52 heroines who shared their thoughts on aging, role models, and feminism. According to the project’s author, “attitudes toward gray hair raise deeper themes of social life in the modern world.”
In 2006, the image of the businesswoman with gray hair, portrayed by Meryl Streep in “The Devil Wears Prada,” became a new symbol in pop culture. This highlighted the significant difference between confident women who achieve career heights by accepting themselves and not reshaping their entire identity to meet someone else’s demands. However, gray hair continues to be associated with “bohemianism,” while most women are unlikely to take pride in their gray hair. It takes a “masculine character” to proudly and defiantly display gray hair, as gray hair in men embodies solidity and authority, while a gray woman is sometimes associated with being an “old witch.” Even Vicki Topaz, an advocate for a different attitude toward gray hair, has yet to muster the courage to stop dyeing her “silver.”
P. S. This text is for informational purposes only. We recommend consulting a doctor to address your gray hair concerns.